Photographs from the road. Barcelona to Transylvania, and back.

24 November 2014
End of the road. Fin de viaje.


23 November 2014
Sestri Levante, Italia. 


22 November 2014
The big cheese.


21 November 2014
Slovenia to Italy.


20 November 2014
From Croatia to Slovenia.


19 November 2014
Along the Sava River, the natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina.  


Contd. 19 November 201
A tree and two cabins, Croatia.


18 November 2014
An epic day border crossing. Romania, Serbia, Croatia. Stories to follow. 


17 November 2014
The road from Bran to Timisoara, Romania.


16 November 2014
“Once again...welcome to my house. Come freely. Go safely; and leave something of the happiness you bring.”  Bram Stoker, Dracula. 


Contd. 16 November 2014
Mâgura mountain tops, Carpathian mountains.


15 November 2014
Back on the road and on our way to the mountains. We're staying in a little 'pensiunea' tonight that over-looks a cemetery. Definitely one-step closer to Dracul.


Contd. 14 November 2014


14 November 2014
16 horsepower through the woods.


Contd. 13 November 2014
A walk on the wild side. Romania is home to the largest surface of virgin forests in Europe, totaling 250,000 hectares (65%). Living amongst these ancient trees, decaying trunks and fallen autumn leaves are about 6000 wild brown bears and Europe's largest population of wolves...

These forests are disappearing at a rate of three hectares per hour. 


13 November 2014
Count Kalnoky's hunting lodge – Miklósvár, Transylvania.


12 November 2014
From Baia Mare to Miklósvár, the Székely (Hungarian warrior) region of Transylvania.


11 November 2014
Bye bye, Baia Mare. A huge huge thank you to Bogdan Stetco and Cleo who gave us shelter and food.


Contd. 10 Nov 2014
Maramures county – a place where it's so easy to forget that there is anything else in the world. 


10 November 2014
The wooden church of Surdești, Maramures. 16th Century.


9 November 2014
Cimitirul Vesel din Săpânța


Contd. 8 November 2014
Standing tall.


8 November 2014
The cabin. 


7 November 2014
Crossing the border. From Hungary to Romania. 


6 November 2014
Today we drove from Budapest to Bàrànd, in the Northern Great Plains of Hungary, on the border with Romania. The tarmac on the roads disappeared about 30 minutes before we arrived at the farm. It's beautiful here, a small village that feels far away from everywhere. Tonight we're sleeping next to horses.


5 November 2014
Bye bye Budapest with Balázs and Ildi. 


4 November 2014
Having spent the last three days zigzagging across the city on foot, today was a homey day for us, which we spent almost entirely horizontal. It was pretty painful to peel ourselves from our cosy little airbnb flat, but we'd booked a table for 7pm at Olimpia and the promise of a very very good dinner was way too tempting. 

Olimpia is a new restaurant that's helping to put Budapest on the gastronomic map. Everything served is fresh, local, seasonal and of extremely high quality. There is no menu here, you just choose how many courses you'd like (4, 5, 6 or 7) and await to be surprised and inspired. The waiters describe each dish when they bring it to the table. We chose the 7-course meal, along with 7 small glasses of wine (each glass hand-picked to compliment the plate). It ended up being 10 courses, as the chef kept surprising us! It's a low-key place, with great service and beautiful food that's not too complicated to enjoy. 

Blown away. Delicious. 


3 November 2014
Dohány Street Synagogue, Budapest.


2 November 2014
A city walk, Budapest. 


1 November 2014
Looking up, Budapest.


31 October 2014
On the road to Budapest, Magyarország. 


30 October 2014
Today we drove along Europe's route E60 from Füssen, Germany to Melk, Austria. Unlike America's infamous Route 66, I'd never heard of the E60 before, but it's one of longest roads in Europe, running all the way from Brest, France to Irkeshtam, Kyrgyzstan which is on the border with the People's Republic of China. Mañana mas (tomorrow more) as we continue on our road to Budapest. 


29 October 2014
I think I have to take the blame for this one. Nacho said he'd heard there were medieval castles in Bavaria and that he'd love to see some. I quite literally typed 'Bavarian Castles' into a Google image search and Neuschwanstein Castle came out top. It looked nice and remote, on the border between Germany and Austria in the Alps. Perfect...

... Ok so the castle itself isn't medieval but an insane replica built by an even more insane Bavarian King, Ludwig II in the 1880s. It's also on the itinerary of every single rich Russian and Chinese tourist that comes to Western Europe, and with visits topping over 6,000 a day, the Germans have devised a lot of rather sophisticated queuing and numbering systems reminiscent of British airport security. It also means that everything is fucking expensive.

When you enter the castle through the electronic gates with your over-priced tickets precisely at your given time-slot, you are handed a compulsory audio-guide and herded around in a group of about 150 people through 6 rooms. You are given 2 minutes in each room before being abruptly moved on and finally spat out into the shop.

So it's all still sinking in, but one thing is for sure, tomorrow we are getting the hell out of here.  


28 October 2014
7 hours of driving. Finally found the the last remaining hotel room in the whole of Füssen. It's going to be an expensive night. Need a bar. Need beer. We found one. It's old, and cosy. The lights are on, the fire is going. We walk inside. It's empty. There's no-one in sight. We call out. Hallo. Hallo. Nothing. We wait. Nothing. We walk up some stairs. Through a kitchen. I think it's a house. We call out again. A man opens a door. We ask if the bar is open. He says yes. He walks with us downstairs. Pours us two pints, puts another log on the fire. Goes back upstairs. We are alone in the bar. We drink our beer. We leave 5 euros and leave. We never saw him again. 


27 October 2014 
A Black Forest Gateaux.


Contd. 26 October 2014 
The green man lives here. 


26 October 2014
Today is Sunday, but I don't think the locals go to church, they go to the pub, and so did we. Time is something different in the Black Forest. By 7am we were up and dressed. By 8am we were walking the 6km through the trees into the village. By 9am we were propped up at the local bar. By 11am we'd found the local Oktoberfest and were eating Pork on the top of a mountain with the local veterans.


24 October 2014
From Nîmes to a small farm-stay near Bad Rippoldsau-Schapbach.
The forests are insanely beautiful. 


22 October 2014

Barcelona to Nîmes.


21 October 2014
There are 24 hours until we depart. Other than a vague route, we have no fixed plans and nothing booked, just a desire to be in places we don't know. If it involves forests, mountains and a good glass of wine or a pint of beer even better.